Street food is meant to be eaten standing up, outside, in a crowd. Edmonton makes that difficult for about five months of the year, so we had to improvise.

The answer was heat, light and noise. Both rooms run warm, the music runs loud, and the open kitchen puts the griddle where you can see it. In winter the consommé comes out first, the horchata goes hot, and we keep the patio open as long as the heaters can hold it, which last year was until the second week of November.

Cold outside, loud inside. That is the whole plan.